![]() cylinder, head gasket, deck and your target C/R and share the math with us for double check.Ħ6 Sprint Corsa convt - First car! Re-purchased 43 years later ![]() (cyl + gsk + head), (assume set to zero deck)ĥ09/55= 9.25 (target c/r for this example) V3: Volume of combustion chamber (calculated value) "I" would target 9.25:1 C/R to 9.5:1 C/R ("I" prefer the higher number) Depending on the gasket you choose, your number may be same or larger. V1: Swept volume of cylinder (in cubic centimeters). 032" copper head gasket and start doing the math. If the pistons are out of the cylinder, "I" would add an extra base gasket to all cylinders to zero the deck height. I've used several sets of topped cylinders and have found them to sometimes have. I would assume milling the gasket register down to the step.įirst, build the bottom end, pistons and cylinders so you can measure the deck height. Your case has so many unusual variables it's going to need the math done fresh. 020".as far as pushrod (custom-lengths),you're going NINE YARDS,but "cheaping out" to a touchdown? Checking the valve train is very time consuming,given the variances in all the parts stack-up tolerances. it sounds like you're using 64-small gasket heads with 65-up cyl's,re: "flycut".The cyl gasket surfaces I've seen NEVER needed to be "topped"-if that area is "bad" get another jug !! Taking an "arbitrary" cut off shortens the distance between the crank rod throw and the piston top/combustion chamber clearance,making "compensating" and/or custom pushrods necessary,plus you can't replace just one or 2 jugs easily on one side with stock ones.A well-respected FV guy and racer mentioned checking the distance from EACH rod throw to the block base-gasket surface-" you wouldn't believe the variation" between all 6 !!",indicating the crank is NOT centered in the block.If yours is off far enough it would cause minor variation in cyl compressions,and worst-case cause the piston to contact the head if you just check that dimension on ONE at your ".040" gasket milling,and another winds up. Hopefully I can make all this work on the cheap. 015"Īlso it would definitely be nice to reuse the old pushrods, I wouldn't want to have to buy new shorter ones just to compensate for milling the heads a bit. 042" thick (+.010) big-bore copper head gaskets. 010" the head gasket surface, which I compensated for by purchasing. ![]() this is no racecar, just a tight budget street engine looking to make a little extra HP where I can.īasically the only other mods so far are isky 260 cam and. As good as that sounds, I am clueless as to how much material to take off, how much room there is to work with, or what has worked for others. Ideally, by cleaning up the steps 'just enough' I would increase compression a bit as well as improve the squish distance between piston and head quench area for better combustion. Does that mean milling the step completely off, or just what is needed? Am i right that best quench distance is around. I am reading alot about 'milling the step', and optimizing the quench area. Looking at the head gasket areas, he says he'll need to take off at least. I have the heads at the machine shop currently for valvejob and fly cut. Trying to get this 110 built asap, not cutting any corners though. ![]()
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